Belt drivetrains are becoming an increasingly popular alternative to chain drives on bicycles. Particularly among commuters and bicycle tourists. Belts are clean, low maintenance, and long-lasting. Of course, there are some drawbacks to consider. This guide outlines the pros and cons of belt drive vs chain drive bikes.
In this guide, I’ll cover performance, efficiency, maintenance, cost, longevity, weight, and much more. I’ll also explain some major differences between these drivetrains and explain how they work. I switched to a belt drive with an internal gear hub on my touring bike about 5 years ago and have no plans of switching back. I still ride chain drive mountain bikes. In this guide, I’ll share my experience. Hopefully, this guide helps you decide which power transmission system is best for your riding style.
Belt drives are longer lasting and require less maintenance. They are also cleaner because they don’t need to be lubed. In addition, they offer smooth and quiet operation.
Chain drives are cheaper, easier to service, and offer better parts availability and compatibility. A chain drive also allows you to use derailleur gears, which can offer more gearing options and a wider gear range.
Belt drives are better for commuters, urban cyclists, those who value low maintenance, those who ride in harsh weather, e-bike riders, bicycle tourists, and those who require durability.
Chain drives are better for those who value performance, competitive cyclists, those on a tight budget, those who do their own maintenance, and those who prefer a versatile gear range.
What is a Belt Drive Bicycle?
A belt drive bicycle uses a synchronous toothed belt to drive the rear wheel. The belt is made from a polymer that is reinforced with carbon fiber cords. The belt teeth that mesh with the sprockets are made from nylon. The belt is used instead of the traditional bike chain.
Belts are paired with durable stainless steel cogs and alloy chainrings. The result is an incredibly tough, clean, and long-lasting drive system that requires very little maintenance. A belt system can be run single speed or multi speed when paired with an internal gear hub or gearbox.
Belt driven bicycles are very popular among commuters for their low maintenance requirements and cleanliness. Bicycle tourists and bikepackers are switching to belt drives due to the long maintenance intervals.
Belt Drive Pros
- Belt drives last longer than chain drives- A properly maintained belt drive can last 3-5 times longer than a chain drive. Some riders have gotten 20,000 miles (around 30,000 km) out of a single belt. I have heard of people getting more than 40,000 km from a belt. Most cyclists won’t need to replace their belt for years. They last a long time. Most chains only last 3000-5000 miles before they need to be replaced.
- Less maintenance- This is the main reason to make the switch. Belt drives are practically maintenance-free. You don’t need to lube them or adjust them. They just keep on working. It is a good idea to clean your belt and sprockets if they get dirty. Contaminants can cause the sprockets to wear quicker. All you need to do is spray them down and give them a quick scrub with a toothbrush.
- Cleaner- Belt drives require no lubrication. This means you don’t have to get your hands dirty to clean and oil them. Because belts aren’t coated in sticky lube, they don’t get caked with mud or sand as easily. Having said this, some cyclists do choose to apply a bit of silicone lube to the belt. This lube can make the belt last longer and run a bit smoother but is generally not required.
- Quieter- Belt drives operate almost silently. This allows you to hear the birds, cars, the wind, and everything going on around you. In extremely dry environments, belts can become squeaky. One trick I learned to get rid of the squeak is to apply some treadmill silicon lubricant. Chains are noisier. Chains make some mechanical noise. Particularly when switching gears with a derailleur.
- Belts perform well in adverse conditions- There are a couple of reasons for this. The design of the sprockets allows the system to shed debris more easily. Most people also pair their belt with an internal gear hub or gearbox. These systems are sealed from the elements. With a belt drive, you don’t have to worry as much about debris contaminating your drivetrain.
- Lighter weight- The belt only weighs about 87 grams. A standard bike chain weighs around 300 grams. There is also less gear that you have to carry. For example, while touring with a belt drive, you don’t need to carry a chain breaker, extra links, chain lube, degreaser, or chain cleaner. This cuts a significant amount of weight and bulk from your toolkit. Having said this, internal gear hubs are heavier than derailleurs. Everything considered, you’ll save around 100 grams by switching to a belt drive.
- Mechanically simpler- The belt itself has no moving parts. They are manufactured in one loop. There are no pins or rollers or plates to stretch or wear out like there are on a bike chain. Of course, you will have to use an internal gear hub if you want gears with your belt drive. This adds more complexity than derailleurs.
- Smooth ride feel- A belt drive feels smoother than a well-oiled chain. There is no noticeable stretch thanks to the super-strong carbon fiber cords in the belt.
- Less loss of efficiency over time- Belt drives don’t stretch or wear like chains. They keep their shape much better over time. The sprocket teeth also wear at the same rate as the belt. This means the drivetrain stays efficient over the lifespan of the belt. A heavily worn belt drivetrain is more efficient than a heavily worn chain drivetrain. This is because chains stretch as they wear. They also wear at different rates than the cassette and chainrings. As these parts wear, the chain can’t mesh as well with the cogs. This creates additional friction, which slows you down.
- The driveline is always straight- The most efficient driveline is a straight line between your front chainring and rear cog. With a belt drive, the driveline is always straight because the belt never moves between cogs. The shifting all happens in a hub or gearbox. A chain often runs at an angle. This happens when you’re running toward the high or low extremes of your gear range with a derailleur setup. This is inefficient and wastes energy. Of course, if you’re running an internal gear hub or Pinion gearbox with a chain, the driveline is straight as well.
- No corrosion- Belts are made of modern synthetic materials including nylon and carbon fiber. These materials don’t rust. This property makes belt drives a great choice for areas where corrosion is common, like near the ocean or in cold regions where the roads are salted.
- Belts are more efficient than chains at higher power outputs- If you are a particularly powerful rider, you might see an increase in efficiency at power outputs over 200 watts.
- A belt drivetrain saves time- You don’t have to spend time cleaning and lubing the drivetrain. You don’t have to replace drivetrain components as frequently.
- Belt drives are modern and high-end- If you’re the type of cyclist who likes to use the newest and most cutting-edge equipment in the sport, belt drives offer that.
Belt Drive Cons
- Belts are only compatible with an internal gear hub, gearbox, or single speed- Belt drives are not compatible with derailleur gears because the belt can’t run at an angle. It must run in a straight line. This limits your drivetrain options. If you want gears, you have to use an internal gear hub or a gearbox. Of course, you can also go single-speed. Gearboxes have their own benefits and drawbacks. They are reliable, low maintenance, and durable. They also allow you to shift while stopped. They are also heavier and less efficient than derailleur drivetrains. For more info, check out my guide to internal gear hubs vs derailleurs.
- You need a special frame- Belt drive compatible bike frames must have a split somewhere in the rear triangle so the belt can be installed. This is necessary because a belt is one continuous loop. It can’t be split apart to install like a chain. Another consideration when choosing a belt drive compatible frame is stiffness. If the frame flexes too much, the belt will skip when under load. Your frame also needs to a belt tensioner. These come in three varieties, eccentric bottom bracket (EBB), sliding dropouts, or horizontal dropouts. I’ll talk more about belt compatible frames later on in this guide.
- Belt drives cost more than chain drives- A new belt will cost you $80-$100. A new front and rear sprocket will cost around $60-$80 each. In addition, you’ll need an internal gear hub. That can cost anywhere from a few hundred to well over $1500 for a high-end option like Rohloff. There are cheaper internal gear hubs available for under $250. You could buy a whole new derailleur groupset for the price of replacing your belt and sprockets. Of course, a belt drive lasts much longer than a chain drive. If you consider this, the costs are much closer. The cost per mile of a belt drivetrain is similar to a high-end chain drivetrain. This is because the wear life is so much longer with a belt.
- Spare parts are harder to find- If you’re riding in the developing world or somewhere remote, finding a replacement belt or sprocket will be difficult or impossible. Many small bike shops and department stores don’t stock parts for belt driven bikes. You might have to order replacements online or find a high-end bike shop. Some countries don’t even import belt drive bike parts. If your belt drive system fails while touring somewhere very remote, you might have to fly home to buy the parts you need. Having said this, because of the long service life of belt drive, you can usually get away with just carrying a spare belt. The sprockets are very durable and last many thousands of miles.
- Belts are less efficient at low power inputs- If you’re just cycling casually, you’ll burn more energy while riding a belt-driven bicycle vs a chain drive. This is because a belt is always under tension. This creates more friction. Chains can run with some slack. The gearing can also reduce the efficiency. Belt drives must paired with an internal gear hub or gearbox. These systems are less efficient than derailleurs by anywhere from 2-6%.
- Belt drives may cause the bottom bracket and rear hub to wear out faster- This happens because belts run at a much higher tension than chains. This extra tension puts more stress on the bearings in the bottom bracket and rear hub, causing them to wear out faster.
- Belts can’t be repaired- If your belt gets cut or damaged in an accident, you’ll need a replacement. You can’t fix a broken belt to limp your way home like you can with a broken chain. If you’re riding somewhere belts aren’t available, you might be out of luck. This failure can put a pause on your tour until you are able to secure a replacement. When riding somewhere remote, it’s a good idea to carry a spare belt. The pack down small and weigh around 100 grams.
- You can’t easily change your gear ratio by installing a new chainring or rear cog- Belt lengths are set. They are not adjustable. If you want to change your gear ratio, you’ll need to buy a new belt that is the proper length.
- Belts can limit your tire size or rim width- Because belts are wider than chains, you may experience some clearance issues. If you tire or rim is too wide, the belt might rub. This limits your tire width on some frames.
- Belts are not compatible with some full-suspension bikes- Many bike suspension systems change the effective chainstay length as they compress. Belts need to stay at the same tension and cannot tolerate this movement. There are spring loaded tensioners that make it possible to run a belt drive with a full suspension bike. These accommodate for the increase in chainstay length as you travel through the suspension range.
Chain Drive Pros
- Chains are compatible with every bike frame- Chains are the standard bicycle drive system. Every frame is designed to work with them. You don’t need any special features like a split in the frame, tensioner system, or extra stiffness.
- Cheaper- A new chain costs around $10-$20. A new cassette costs $20-$40. A chainring costs $20-$80. You could replace all three for less than the cost of a single carbon belt. Derailleur systems are much less expensive than internal gear hubs as well. If you’re on a budget, a conventional chain drive is your cheapest option.
- Chains are compatible with derailleurs- Derailleurs are the simplest, cheapest, and most common bike gear system. A derailleur drivetrain can give you more gears. You also have more options in terms of gear ratios. If you want to use a derailleur, you have to use a chain drive system.
- Spare parts are easier to find- Every bike shop sells chains, freewheels, cassettes, and chainrings. If your chain breaks or a cog wears out, you can easily find a replacement almost anywhere. Even in remote parts of the world. There is an exception to this. If you decide to use a modern 9, 10, 11, or 12 speed groupset, parts can be hard to find. Many bike shops in developing countries don’t carry parts for these systems yet. The chains are much more narrow and are not cross-compatible with larger chains. If you’re choosing a chain drive to make finding parts easier, 6, 7, or 8 speed is your best bet. These are available everywhere.
- Chains are more efficient at low power inputs- For casual cycling, you’ll burn slightly less energy by using a chain drive.
- Bottom bracket and rear hub bearings last longer- Chains run at a lower tension than belts. This puts less stress on the bearings so they don’t wear as quickly.
- Chains are easy to adjust- If you decide to switch to a different size chainring, you can easily adjust the length of your chain to fit the new one. You don’t need to buy a new chain. Belt lengths are set when you buy them. There are a set number of lengths available.
- Chains are easy to service and replace- Every bike mechanic knows how to set up a chain drive and maintain it. A belt drive is a bit more modern and complex. It takes more know-how to properly set it up.
- You can repair a chain in the field if it breaks- Bike chains rarely catastrophically fail. If the chain breaks or gets bent, you can almost always remove a few links and limp your way to the nearest bike shop. You might need to run single speed if you do this but at least you can ride. Of course, you’ll need a chain tool to make this repair.
- Chains are compatible with full suspension- With most full-suspension bikes, the effective chainstay length changes as the suspension travels. The rear derailleur can compensate for that change by changing the length of the chain. This is accomplished with springs in the derailleur which keep the chain at the proper tension. This isn’t possible with belt drives.
- Chains are standard- The roller chain has been around since the 1880s. This means bicycles have been using chain drive systems for over 100 years at this point. The technology is tested and proven.
Cons of Chain Drive
- More Maintenance- To keep your chain running smoothly, you have to keep it clean. This involves scrubbing off the grease and dirt then applying some new lube. It’s about a 10-15 minute job. A casual cyclist will have to clean and lube their bike chain about once per month. If you’re touring, you might need to clean your chain every couple of days. Belts operate pretty much maintenance-free.
- Chain drives don’t last as long- An average bike chain lasts around 3,000-5,000 miles if it’s properly cared for. Every other time that you change your chain, you’ll probably have to replace your cassette. Belt drives can last 10,000-20,000 miles before they need to be replaced. One way to extend the life of your chain drivetrain is to swap chains every 500 miles or so. Some riders have 4 chains that they rotate between. The idea behind this is that your cassette will wear more evenly and last longer. After the chains and your cassette wear out, you replace everything. You might get 10,000 miles out of your chain drivetrain this way. Of course, you’re still using multiple chains.
- Chains lose efficiency over time- As chains wear, they tend to ‘stretch’. This stretching is really the loss of material on the chain from wear. As chains wear out, they become loose. This reduces tension and can lead to slippage. Cogs can also wear down to a point that the chain doesn’t fit quite right. This can create additional friction which causes inefficiency. Not cleaning and lubing the chain often enough also reduces efficiency. This costs you energy. Belts maintain their shape and wear much more slowly. They also wear at the same rate as the cogs. This means they maintain their efficiency longer.
- Dirtier- Chains require frequent cleaning and greasing. It’s a messy job. While dealing with your chain, you’ll eventually get grease on your hands and gear.
- Heavier- A chain weighs over three times as much as a belt. For example, an average 9 speed bike chain weighs around 300 grams. A Gates Carbon Drive belt weighs around 87 grams. When you’re touring, you’ll also need to carry a chain tool, lube, spare links, and something to clean with. Maybe even an entire spare chain. This adds a significant amount of weight. With a belt drive, all you’ll need is a spare belt.
- Chain drives are louder- The metal chain running against metal cogs makes some noise. Shifting gears also produces a bit of noise. The noise is amplified if the chain is dirty, worn out, or out of adjustment. Belt drives are almost silent. A perfectly cleaned and adjusted chain is very quiet as well.
- Chains corrode- Because chains are made of metal, they tend to rust. This is particularly common if you ride near the ocean or during the winter in an area that salts the roads. Belts, being made from synthetic materials, don’t rust.
- Chains are more mechanically complex- Chains have a lot of moving parts. Each link has pins, outer plates, inner plates, and rollers. If a part gets bent or gummed up, it can prevent your chain from working properly. Belts are simply one continuous piece of material. Having said this, if you’re using derailleurs, your chain system is less complex than if you use an internal gear hub.
- The driveline isn’t always straight- When you use a derailleur system, the chain runs at an angle much of the time. Particularly when you’re riding at an extreme of your gear range. Running your chain at an angle is inefficient because the angle creates more friction in the drive system. Of course, this isn’t a problem if you use an internal gear hub or run single speed because your chainline will always be straight.
A Few Things to Consider When Choosing a Belt Drive Compatible Bike Frame
In order to install a belt drive, your frame must be compatible. A few years back, these frames were pretty rare. These days, with the increase in popularity of belt drives, manufacturers are introducing more and more belt compatible frames. Below, I’ll outline three requirements your frame must meet to use a belt drive.
Belt Drive Frames
In order to install a belt drive, your frame must split somewhere in the rear triangle. This is necessary because a belt is one continuous piece of material without any breaks, unlike a chain. This split can be in the seatstay, chainstay, or dropout. These days, most frame splitters are integrated into the dropout.
It is possible to split a frame so it is compatible with belt drive. I’ll talk about that more later.
In order to use a belt drivetrain, you need to be able to adjust the belt’s tension. There are three different options for belt tensioning. Each has its benefits and drawbacks.
1. Eccentric bottom bracket (EBB)
An eccentric bottom bracket is a device that installs in the bottom bracket shell of your frame. It allows you to adjust your crankset forward and backward about 14 mm to adjust the tension of your belt.
The main benefit of using an eccentric bottom bracket is that they work with almost every frame. They also allow you to remove your back wheel without having to re-adjust the belt tension.
The biggest drawback to eccentric bottom brackets is that they can be a bit creaky. They don’t feel quite as solid as a standard bottom bracket. Another problem is that they require a bit of maintenance. The reason is that water and debris can enter. This needs to be cleaned out periodically.
2. Sliding Dropouts
Sliding dropouts allow the dropout itself to move forward and backward. These allow about 20 mm of adjustment. To adjust the belt tension, you simply turn a bolt that slides a part of the dropout that holds your wheel forward and backward. Most designs use a couple of lock nuts on the sides of the dropout to lock it in place once your belt is set to the correct tension.
The beauty of sliding dropouts is that the design allows you to remove your rear wheel without having to re-adjust the belt tension. The wheel slots in and out without any adjustment to the position of the dropout. This makes repairing a flat much easier. When you replace the wheel in the dropout, the tension stays the same. Sliding dropouts are also very easy to use.
The only problem with sliding dropouts is that some designs tend to lose tension over time. This is particularly common on lower-end frames.
3. Horizontal Dropouts
This design is similar to sliding dropouts. The main difference is that the wheel slides in the dropout rather than a part of the dropout itself. This is the least common belt tensioning design. It doesn’t really offer any benefits over the other belt tensioning designs.
The biggest drawback to horizontal dropouts is that you have to re-adjust the belt tension each time you remove your rear wheel. This gets pretty tedious. Gates, one of the leading belt drive manufacturers, does not recommend this design for their belt drives for this reason.
Belt Drive Frame Stiffness
For your belt drive to work as intended, your frame needs to have a stiff rear triangle. This is particularly important for powerful cyclists, heavy cyclists, or those who carry luggage. The reason that rear triangle stiffness is so important is because belts tend to skip when the frame flexes. This happens because the belt loses tension when the frame flexes.
If your frame isn’t quite stiff enough, you can increase the tension of your belt. This reduces the likelihood of skips. Unfortunately, an overly tensioned belt also reduces the efficiency of your drive system.
Stiff frames, on the other hand, allow you to run your belt at a lower tension. This eliminates skips and improves efficiency. When shopping for a frame, look for oversized chainstay and seatstay tubes. These help to strengthen the rear triangle.
One of the most popular belt drive systems is the Gates Carbon Drive. If you plan to use this system, consider checking out Gates’s list of compatible frames. These have been tested and approved for using belt drives.
Belt Drives and Gearing
One of the biggest drawbacks of switching from a chain drive to a belt drive is that you limit yourself to internal gear hubs, crank-based gearboxes like those from Pinion, or single speed drivetrains.
Derailleurs are not compatible because the belt can’t operate at an angle. The belt must stay in place and run in a straight line between the cog and chainring.
Before purchasing your drivetrain components, you’ll want to make sure that they have the same beltline. Generally, the placement of the rear cog is set and cannot be adjusted. Cranksets can usually be adjusted a few millimeters closer and further from the frame.
For example, if your Rohloff internal gear hub has a beltline of 54.7 mm, you’ll want to purchase a crankset that has a beltline of 54.7 mm. You can probably get away with a 1 mm difference.
Belt Drive With an Internal Gear Hub
This combination is a dream for many cyclists. In order to pair a belt drive with an internal gear hub, your frame must be sufficiently stiff. Bike frame manufacturers test their frames to prove that they are strong enough to support the tension of a belt drive. This involves a specialized testing jig. Frames that pass the test will be advertised as ‘belt drive ready’ or some equivalent advertising term. Alternatively, you can check out Gates’ list of approved frames linked above.
You can also use a belt snubber. This device prevents the belt from skipping on the rear sprocket or sliding off the cog. This can happen when the belt is under insufficient tension or under a particularly high load. The snubber also helps to protect your belt from damage from lifting off of the cog.
Belt Drive with Pinion Gearbox
If you’re not a fan of internal gear hubs, Pinion offers a unique alternative. These hubs mount at the crankset to specially designed frames. These gearboxes are designed for use with a belt system. They offer a wider range of gearing than most other drive systems. The main drawbacks are the cost and weight.
Gear Ratios for Belt Drives
In the past, gearing options for belt drives were somewhat limited. This is no longer an issue. These days there are plenty of gear ratio options to choose from. Gates offers 8 different front sprocket sizes and 13 different rear sprocket sizes. There are also over 20 different belt lengths.
The ideal belt tension depends on several factors including how powerfully you pedal, frame stiffness, and whether you use an internal gear hub or single speed.
You will also need to re-tension your belt once in a while as the sprockets wear down. Belts do not stretch like chains so you won’t need to re-tension nearly as frequently as you’re used to.
To tension your belt properly, you’ll need some way to measure the tension. For this, you have two options:
- Smartphone app- Gate’s free iPhone and Android app measures your bike’s belt tension with your phone’s microphone. All you have to do is enter the size of your front and rear sprocket as well as your belt then hold your phone next to the belt and give it a few plucks. As the belt vibrates, it will send out sound waves. Your phone measures the frequency of the waves to determine the tension of your belt. You can use this information to tighten or loosen your belt until it’s at the ideal tension.
- Belt tensioning gauge- This tool can give you a more accurate measurement than a smartphone app.
Exactly how you tension your belt depends on the type of belt tensioner that your bike uses. Usually, all you’ll need is an Allen key and a wrench. Eccentric bottom brackets sometimes require some kind of spanner to turn them. The sizes depend on your setup.
Choosing the Right Belt Size
Belts sizes can’t be adjusted like chains. You need to choose the correct belt size for your gearing setup. Gates offers about 23 different belt sizes. To help you choose the correct size, use this handy calculator on Gates’ website.
To use the calculator, you simply input the chainstay length of your frame and the gear ratio you desire. The calculator will output all of the different sprocket sizes and belt lengths that will be compatible with your bike.
Can You Conver a Bike From Chain Drive to Belt Drive?
Yes. It is possible to convert a bike from chain drive to belt drive.
Before belt drives were common, people would modify their frame with a splitter so they could upgrade without having to replace the whole frame. This involved cutting a break in the rear triangle and bolting it back together.
The problem with modifying your frame is the potential loss of stiffness in the rear triangle. This is a problem because belts need to run at a much higher tension than chains to prevent slippage.
When you modify your frame, there is no guarantee that it will be stiff enough to hold the belt in place. If the frame flexes too much, the belt slips.
If you’re in love with your frame and you want to take the chance, there are frame builders who can make this modification. I can’t really recommend it but it is possible.
You’ll also need some way of adjusting the belt tension. If your bike doesn’t come with horizontal dropouts or sliding dropouts, an eccentric bottom bracket is the best choice. These are compatible with pretty much any bike.
In addition, you’ll need to install an internal gear hub. This involves rebuilding your rear wheel with the new hub.
The best option is to switch to a dedicated belt drive frame. This way, you know for sure that the system will work as expected. Belt compatible frames are common these days.
If you want to do a belt drive conversion but you don’t want to modify your frame, there is a company that makes belts with a split in them called Veer Cycle. This allows you to install a belt drive on any bike.
I’m not sure how these compare strength wise to standard belt drives like the ones from Gates. Comment below if you have any experience with these.
FAQ About Belt Drive Bikes
Can You Use a Belt Drive with an Electric Bike?
Yes. Chain-drive e-bikes are more common but belt drive models are available. Most belt drives are rated for e-bike use. If you plan to use a mid-drive motor, you’ll need a belt that can handle the additional torque. Gates CDC and CDX models are great for belt e-bikes.
Can You Run a Belt Drive on a Fixed Gear Bike?
Yes. Belts are compatible with fixed gear bikes.
Can You Run a Belt Drive on a Full Suspension Mountain Bike?
Yes, but you will need a special spring-loaded belt tensioner. This piece accounts for the change in chainstay length as you move throughout the suspension range.
Do Belt Drives Damage the Hub and Bottom Bracket Bearings?
If you have to run your belt at maximum tension because your rear triangle is too flexible, you may notice some premature wear and tear on your hub bearings and bottom bracket bearings.
A frame that is designed for a belt drive will have a stiff rear triangle so you won’t have to run the belt at maximum tension. In fact, the belt tension will be similar to the tension of a chain.
Do Belts Ever Break?
Yes. Belts can break, just like chains can break. Catastrophic failure of a belt is extremely rare. I would say that a broken belt is less likely than a broken chain. There are also some precautions you can take to greatly reduce the likelihood of suffering a broken belt.
Belts can break for a few reasons including incorrect alignment, improper tension, and internal carbon fiber cord damage. Of course, a belt can also break from excessive wear. A few signs that a belt should be replaced include cracks, missing teeth, exposed carbon cords, or uneven wear on the teeth, it’s time to replace it.
One common way for belts to get damaged is for the belt to ride up on the rear sprocket. This can damage the teeth and the carbon fiber cord. This happens when the belt is too loose or when it’s not properly aligned.
To avoid this situation, it’s a good idea to use a belt snubber. This will guide the belt and ensure that it doesn’t lift up onto the teeth of the rear sprocket.
Belts can also break from improper handling. Belts are a bit more fragile than chains. If you mishandle them, you can damage the internal carbon fiber. If this happens, the belt can snap.
You never want to crimp, twist, invert, backbend, zip tie, or use your belt as a wrench. When installing a belt, set your chainring and rear cog so they are close together. You don’t want to try to stretch the belt onto the gears.
If you need to carry a spare belt, gently fold it into three loops and try to store it somewhere where it won’t get crushed. Try to be careful while folding and unfolding it to prevent damage.
Which is Better? Belt Drive or Chain Drive
As we have seen, both belt drive and chain drive systems have their place. Neither is really better than the other.
Generally, if you ride for transportation, a belt drive is an excellent choice. For commuters, bicycle tourists, bikepackers, e-bikers, hauling cargo, or recreational cycling, a belt-drive system is a great option. Having a clean and low-maintenance drivetrain is a major advantage.
For competitive cycling and those who simply like to ride fast, a chain is still the best option. It’s a lighter weight, more efficient, and more customizable system.
For my style of riding, I prefer belt drive. I mostly ride for transportation. I also do some bicycle touring. My favorite aspect of the belt drive is the low maintenance. I love being able to just ride without having to worry about maintenance.
The cleanliness is also a major plus. Cleaning a bike chain is one of my least favorite jobs. Not having to get my hands messy cleaning and lubing a chain is a major advantage.
I also find the cost to be pretty reasonable, considering how long these drivetrains last. When you factor in the longevity, a belt drive isn’t much more expensive than a chain.
As you can see, chains and belts both have their benefits and drawbacks. Belts are clean, quiet, durable, and low maintenance. Chains are cheap and lightweight. They are also compatible with all bikes and derailleurs. Both drive types are reliable, durable, and efficient.
Ultimately, the best choice for you comes down to the type of riding you do, where you ride, and your personal preference. Whichever drive system you choose, I hope this guide helps you decide.
Where do you stand on the chain vs belt drive debate? Share your experience and tips in the comments below!
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Zachary Friedman is an accomplished travel writer and professional blogger. Since 2011, he has traveled to 66 countries and 6 continents. He founded ‘Where The Road Forks’ in 2017 to provide readers with information and insights based on his travel and outdoor recreation experience and expertise. Zachary is also an avid cyclist and hiker. Living as a digital nomad, Zachary balances his professional life with his passions for hiking, camping, cycling, and worldwide exploration. For a deeper dive into his journey and background, visit the About page. For inquiries and collaborations, please reach out through the Contact page. You can also follow him on Facebook.