Most bicycles have a ratchet mechanism built into the hub that allows you to stop pedaling while the wheels keep rolling. This allows you to coast. This mechanism is built into the freewheel or freehub. In this guide, I’ll explain the difference between a freewheel and a freehub. I’ll also list some pros and cons of using a freewheel vs freehub. We’ll cover performance, maintenance, reliability, costs, and more.
What is a Freewheel?
The freewheel is a ratchet mechanism. It locks when you pedal forward. This allows you to provide power to the rear wheel through the chain. When you stop pedaling or pedal backward, the mechanism spins freely. This allows you to coast.
Most older bikes and some entry-level bikes use a freewheel hub. This is a hub with threads on the drive side. A gear cluster threads directly onto the hub. The gear cluster is called a freewheel. Most freewheels have 7 gears or fewer.
This can cause some confusion. The word freewheel can refer to the ratchet mechanism, the hub type, or the gear cluster. In most cases, when someone is talking about a freewheel, they’re talking about the gear cluster.
The ratchet mechanism is built into the gear cluster. The sprockets and ratchet mechanism are a single unit. They cannot be taken apart. You cannot replace individual cogs. If something wears out, you must replace the whole unit.
The ratchet mechanism contains a set of bearings that are sealed inside the freewheel unit. There are also two sets of bearings in the hub, between the hub and axle. Most freewheel hubs use a cup and cone bearing system. Around 9 Loose ball bearings sit in a cupped section that is pressed into the side of the hub. The cone holds the bearings in the cup. It is held in place with a bolt. Some hubs use cartridge-style bearings.
How a Freewheel Works
Inside the freewheel, there is a cylindrical shell that has 2-3 spring-loaded pawls spaced evenly around the sides. The pawls are little metal flaps. This shell is what threads onto the hub. Around the inside of the main body of the freewheel is a set of teeth or ridges. This part attaches over the pawls. A set of tiny ball bearings allows the pawls to run smoothly over the teeth in one direction.
When you pedal, the pawls spring up and catch on the teeth. This prevents the gear cluster from moving forward in relation to the rear wheel. This allows you to transfer your pedaling power into the rear wheel to drive the bike forward.
When you stop pedaling, coast, or pedal backward, the pawls pass freely over the teeth. This is possible because the pawls are spring-loaded. They pivot down so they can pass over the teeth. The pawls passing over the teeth is what makes the clicking sound you hear while coasting.
Freewheels are becoming increasingly rare. They are an older technology that is being replaced by freehubs. Pretty much all bikes used a freewheel before the 1980s. They are standard on vintage bikes. Some low-end bikes still use a freewheel system today.
What is a Freehub?
A freehub combines a rear hub and a freewheel mechanism in one unit. The freewheel mechanism is called the freehub body or cassette body. The freehub body bolts directly onto the hub.
A cassette slides onto a series of ridges or splines on the freehub body. The cassette secures in place with a lockring. A cassette is a series of sprockets or cogs. Most cassettes have 7-12 sprockets. The cassette itself has no moving parts.
A freehub contains four sets of bearings. There is one set of bearings on either side of the freehub body. There is another set of bearings on either side of the hub, between the hub and axle. On most modern freehubs, these are all cartridge bearings.
At the end of the freehub body is a series of spring-loaded pawls. Most freehubs have around 6 pawls. The pawls look like little flaps. The inner surface of the hub contains a series of teeth. When you start pedaling, the pawls spring up and catch on the teeth. The freehub body cannot spin forward relative to the rear wheel. This is what allows you to transfer your pedaling power through the hub and into the rear wheel.
When you stop pedaling to coast, the pawls pass freely over the teeth. The springs allow the pawls to pivot down so they can pass over the teeth. The clicking sound that you hear while coasting comes from the pawls springing off of the teeth.
Freehubs are a newer technology. They were invented by a British company called Bayliss-Wiley in 1938. The first commercially successful freehub was released by Shimano in 1978. Today, most geared bikes come with a freehub system.
What is the Difference Between a Freewheel and a Freehub?
The main difference between a freewheel and a freehub is the location of the ratchet mechanism that allows you to coast.
On a freewheel hub, the ratchet mechanism is built into the gear cluster. On a freehub, the ratchet mechanism is built into the freehub body. This is a separate part that attaches directly to the hub.
Another key difference between a freewheel and freehub is the way that the gear cluster attaches to the hub.
On a freewheel, the gear cluster threads directly onto the hub with right-hand threads. The force you create by pedaling forward tightens the freewheel on the hub and locks it in place.
On a freehub, the gear cluster (cassette) attaches to the freehub body. It slots onto a series of splines on the outer shell of the freehub body. A lockring secures the cassette in place. The freehub body is bolted to the hub.
The placement of the axle bearings is also different. Freehubs space the bearings further apart than freewheels. This increases axle durability. The axle is less likely to bend or break when the bearings sit further apart.
The number of gears is also a major difference between freewheel and freehub systems. Most freewheels have 5, 6, or 7 speeds. Modern freehub systems often have 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 speeds.
Another difference is the number of pawls. This determines the number of points of engagement that the freehub or freewheel has. An average freewheel has 30 points of engagement. Most freehubs have 48+ points of engagement.
The tools required to remove the gear cluster and maintain the hub are also different. To remove a cassette from a freehub, you’ll need a chain whip, cassette remover tool, and an adjustable wrench. To remove a freewheel from the hub, you need a freewheel remover tool and an adjustable wrench.
The types of bearings that the hubs use are also different in many cases. Most modern freehubs use sealed cartridge bearings. Freewheels often use a cup and cone bearings system with loose ball bearings that sit in grease. You cannot replace the bearings inside of a freewheel gear cluster.
Of course, there are also many similarities between freewheel and freehub systems. From the outside, they both look the same. They also perform the same function. When you take the systems apart, they are clearly different mechanically. Parts are not interchangeable. If you want to change from a freewheel to a freehub, you’ll have to install a number of new parts.
How do I Know if My Bike Has a Freewheel or Freehub?
When installed, freewheel and freehub systems look nearly identical. You may not be able to tell which system your bike uses by simply looking at it.
To determine whether your bike has a freewheel or freehub, start by removing the rear wheel. Next, locate the tool fitting. This is where you would place your cassette or freewheel remover tool if you were going to remove the gear cluster. The fitting is located near the center of the gear cluster. You’ll see some slots where the tool fits in. Next, spin the cogs backward with your fingers.
If the tool fitting spins with the cogs, the bike has a freehub. If it does not spin, the bike has a freewheel.
The number of gears is also a pretty good indication as well. If your bike has 8 or more rear cogs, it probably has a freehub. If it has 7 or fewer, it probably has a freewheel. There are exceptions to this.
Single Speed Freewheels and Freehubs
Both freewheel and freehub systems are commonly used in single-speed drivetrains. The systems work the same as multi-speed models. A single-speed freewheel has the ratchet mechanism built into the single cog. The cog threads directly onto the hub. Single-speed freewheels are common on BMX bikes, kid’s bikes, and mountain bikes.
A single-speed freehub system works just like a multi-speed setup. The single cog has splines that slot onto the freehub body. On a single-speed freehub system, the freehub body will be shorter because it only needs to accommodate a single cog. Sometimes spacers are necessary to center the cog on the freehub body. Single-speed freehub systems are less common.
Most fixed gear bikes use the same hub as freewheel bikes. The difference is that a fixed gear cog doesn’t have a ratchet mechanism. It is a simple cog that threads onto the hub and remains fixed in relation to the wheel. It is possible to convert a freehub to a fixed gear. This requires a special adapter that replaces the freehub body. The adapter does not have a ratchet mechanism.
Can I Convert My Bike from a Freewheel to a Freehub?
Yes, but it’s not easy. To upgrade your bike from a freewheel to a freehub, you’ll have to replace the entire hub. Most cyclists will have to pay a professional to build the new wheel. In most cases, you’ll have to replace your crankset and chain. In addition, you may have to replace your shifter and derailleur. As you can imagine, it’s a pretty costly job. In most cases, it’s not worth it to switch from a freewheel to a freehub but it is possible.
Freewheel Vs Freehub Pros and Cons
Maintenance
One significant drawback to freewheel hubs is that removing the gear cluster from the hub can be a challenge. This is because torque from the chain constantly tightens the freewheel onto the hub as you ride. This is by design so the freewheel doesn’t come loose.
The problem is that freewheels tend to seize up on the hub over time. When this happens, it takes a massive amount of force to remove the freewheel from the hub. You might have to use a long-handled wrench to get enough leverage to break the seized-up freewheel loose.
This makes repairs and maintenance a hassle. Every time you need to replace your freewheel, grease your bearings, repair a broken spoke, or thoroughly clean your drivetrain, you’ll have to deal with the hassle of removing a seized-up freewheel.
Freehubs are far easier to maintain. To remove a cassette, you just need to loosen a lockring and then slide the cassette off. You don’t have to remove the freehub body. This makes replacing the cassette much easier. It’s also easier to replace broken spokes. After removing the sprockets, you have access to the hub flange. Some riders remove their cassette every time they clean their drivetrain.
Winner: Freehubs are easier to maintain because it is much easier to remove the gear cluster.
Durability
Freehubs place the drive side and non-drive side axle bearings further apart than freewheel hubs. The drive-side axle bearings sit inside of the freehub body and gear cluster. On a freewheel bike, the drive-side bearings sit next to the gear cluster, closer to the center of the hub.
Wider bearing spacing reduces stress on the axle by distributing force over more of the axle. This improves axle durability. The rear axle of a bike with a freehub is less likely to bend or break during a hard hit. Freehubs are the better choice for mountain biking for this reason. For road biking, axle durability is rarely an issue.
The closer bearing spacing of freewheel hubs worked fine for many decades. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, mountain biking wasn’t as popular. People weren’t putting much stress on their axles. Axles were also shorter because hub spacing was more narrow. Frames had 120mm or 126mm spacing. These days, most bikes have 130mm or 135mm spacing. Shorter axles were stronger.
When mountain biking became popular in the 1980s, riders started experiencing problems. Axles would frequently bend or break during a hard landing. Freehubs helped to solve this problem by improving axle durability.
Not all freehubs have wide bearing spacing. On some models, the drive-side bearings sit closer to the center of the hub, just like freewheel hubs. To compensate for the weaker design, they may use oversized axles.
Some mountain bikers still experience broken or bent axles, even with a freehub. To solve this issue, more and more bikes are coming with thru-axles. These replace the narrow quick-release axles. Standard rear quick-release axles measure 10mm. Rear thru-axles measure 12-15mm. The thicker axles greatly improve durability. For more info, check out my guide to quick release vs thru-axles.
Winner: Freehubs offer better axle durability than freewheels because the bearings are spaced further apart. This reduces the likelihood of bent and broken axles.
Number of Gears
Bikes with freehubs usually have 7-12 sprockets on the cassette. Bikes with freewheels usually have 7 speeds or fewer. Generally having more gears is better.
There are a number of benefits of having more gears. First, you have a better chance of finding the ideal gear ratio that matches incline and surface conditions as well as your desired cadence. You can dial in your gearing more precisely when you have more gears. When you’re riding in the optimal gear, you don’t waste energy pedaling too hard or spinning too fast.
Bikes with more gears also tend to have more gear range and smaller steps between gears. Another potential benefit of having more gears is that you can often get away with a 1x drivetrain.
With a lower gear count freewheel, sometimes you can’t find the right gear. You may end up riding at a higher or lower cadence than you need. You may not have a gear that is high or low enough for the conditions.
These days, it is possible to buy a freewheel with 9 or 10 speeds. The drawback to these is that they tend to be of low quality. Shifting performance is often poor. If you need more than 8 sprockets on the rear cluster, you’re better off with a freehub system.
Winner: A bike with a freehub usually has more gears than a bike with a freewheel.
Points of Engagement
The point where the pawls bite the teeth in the freehub or freewheel is called the point of engagement. At this point, your pedaling force starts being transmitted into the rear wheel. There are a limited number of points of engagement in a freehub or freewheel because there are a limited number of pawls. Some systems have more points of engagement than others because they have more pawls.
Freehubs offer more points of engagement than freewheels. A standard freewheel has 30 points of engagement. An average freehub has around 48 points of engagement. High-end freehubs usually have 72-200+ points of engagement. Recently, Industry Nine released the Hydra hub that features an impressive 690 points of engagement.
Points of engagement can be expressed in degrees of engagement. This number represents the maximum number of degrees that you must rotate the cranks before the hub engages and the wheel starts moving. This is sometimes called the angle of engagement.
For example, if you run a freewheel that has 30 points of engagement, the angle of engagement would be 12°. This is calculated by dividing 360° by the number of points of engagement, which is 30 in this example (360/30=12). This means you’ll have to rotate the cranks a maximum of 12° before the hub engages.
If the hub has 48 points of engagement, the angle of engagement would be 7.5°. If the hub has 72 points of engagement, the angle of engagement would be 5°. As you can see, the more points of engagement a hub has, the less distance you have to turn the cranks for the hub to engage and start moving the wheel. Hubs with lots of points of engagement are sometimes called ‘instant engagement’.
Having more points of engagement is better because it allows the hub to engage faster when you start pedaling. There is less lag. You don’t have to spin the cranks as far to engage the hub. There are also more points where you can set your pedal.
When there are too few points of engagement, your hub may have dead spots when you start turning the cranks. This makes it more difficult to make quick short pedal strokes. You can’t set your pedals exactly where you want them. It can also make it harder to balance t on the bike.
Fast hub engagement is particularly important for mountain biking because you’re constantly stopping and starting pedaling again. When riding technical terrain, sometimes you have to make quick, short pedal strokes. Sometimes you have to make a short-stroke, backpedal, then make another short stroke. This is called ratchet pedaling. These techniques are necessary to avoid pedal strikes while riding uneven terrain. Having more points of engagement makes these techniques easier.
Fast hub engagement is also important for competitive riders because you can start delivering power a fraction of a second faster when you start pedaling. When coming out of a corner, you don’t have to turn the cranks quite as far to start producing power. You can also produce more power while riding through rough terrain by sneaking in an extra pedal stroke here and there. You can also ratchet your pedals to gain extra momentum.
For road riding, the number of points of engagement is less important because you’re almost always pedaling. You may only notice your hub engagement when starting from a stop or while exiting a corner.
Winner: Freehubs offer more points of engagement than freewheels.
Gear Range
Gear range is the difference between the lowest and highest gear. The number of teeth on the smallest and largest cogs determines the gear range. Gear range is expressed as a percentage. For more info on gear range, check out this great guide.
Freehub systems offer more gear range because they have more gears. A 12 speed cassette can give you a gear range of over 500%. A 7 speed freewheel may only offer a gear range of around 300%. You can increase your gear range by over 60% by using a freehub instead of a freewheel.
A wider gear range gives you a lower low gear and a higher high gear. With more gear range, you can ride varied terrain more easily. While climbing up a steep hill, you can shift down into your lowest gear and pedal up easily. On a flat surface, you can shift into your highest gear and reach a higher top speed.
Winner: A freehub system can give you a wider gear range than a freewheel.
Gear Steps
Freehub systems have smaller steps between the gears than freewheels. In other words, the difference from one gear to the next is smaller. This is the case because cassettes usually have more gears than freewheels. The percent change between gears can be smaller when there are more gears in the range.
The step between gears is determined by the number of teeth on each cog. The steps are measured in percent. A 12 speed freehub system may have a 12% difference between gears throughout the range, on average. A 7 speed freewheel may have a 20% difference between gears, on average.
The gear steps play a big role in your cadence. In cycling, cadence is the number of revolutions you pedal per minute. Everyone has an optimal cadence where they pedal with peak power and efficiency. For an average cyclist, this is around 60-80 RPM.
Shifting up into higher gear temporarily reduces your cadence because pedaling becomes harder. For example, with a 12 speed cassette, your cadence might drop by 10 RPM when you upshift. With a 7 speed freewheel, your cadence might drop by 15 RPM when you upshift.
While shifting between gears, smaller steps are preferable because they are less noticeable. It’s easier to maintain your cadence when the steps between gears are smaller because the speed of the pedals doesn’t change as much when you shift. You can accelerate back up to your optimal cadence quickly. Ideally, you want to maintain your optimal cadence, regardless of your speed. This allows you to ride efficiently.
For road biking, small and consistent gear steps are important for maintaining your cadence. For mountain biking, larger steps between gears aren’t as noticeable because you’re stopping and starting pedaling more frequently while navigating obstacles.
Winner: Freehubs usually have smaller steps between gears than freewheels.
Cost
Freewheel systems are cheaper than freehub systems. A basic 7 speed freewheel costs around $20-$25. A hub costs around $40-60. To compare, an 8 or 9 speed cassette costs around $35-40. A basic freehub costs around $50-$100.
Most freehubs come with the freehub body. If your freehub’s coasting mechanism wears out, you can replace it separately. You don’t have to worry about this cost on a freewheel bike because the coasting mechanism is built into the freewheel. You replace it every time you replace your sprockets.
At the high end, freehub components are much more expensive. A 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette costs $80-$300+ depending on the quality. A high-end freehub can cost $200-$300+. There are some premium freewheel components available but they are nowhere near as expensive. A high-end freewheel might cost $80.
As you can see, freewheel and freehub parts costs vary greatly. At the low end, prices are similar. At the high end, freehubs are far more expensive.
You might also save money on other parts if you go with a freewheel system. For example, 6/7/8 speed chains are far cheaper than 11 and 12 speed chains. Derailleurs and shifters for low speed count bikes are cheaper than those for high speed count bikes.
Winner: Freewheel systems are cheaper than freehubs.
Customization
Cassette gearing is customizable. You can take a cassette apart and replace a single cog or a group of cogs. This allows you to fine-tune your gearing exactly how you want it. For example, maybe your cassette has a big jump between two gears. You could replace one of the cogs to make the jump smaller. Maybe your gearing isn’t high enough. If your smallest cog has 12 teeth, you could replace it with one with 10 teeth.
Freewheels are not customizable because all of the cogs and the ratchet mechanism are built into one unit. They cannot be separated. If you want to change your gearing, you have to replace the entire freewheel. There are fewer freewheel options. You may not be able to get the exact gearing that you want.
It is possible to upgrade a bike from a 5 or 6 speed freewheel to a 7 speed. In many cases, you can simply swap the freewheel out. Sometimes you’ll need to add a spacer to prevent the chain from rubbing the frame. In some cases, you may need to re-center the axle and re-dish the wheel.
Winner: Freehubs give you more gearing options because you can customize your cassette.
Gearing and Component Options
Freehubs offer far more options than freewheels in terms of gearing. You can choose from 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 speed cassettes. When you use a freehub, you can also use more modern 1x drivetrains. These eliminate the need for a front derailleur and shifter. It’s possible to customize your gearing by swapping out sprockets. You can choose a narrow range cassettes with small gear steps for road riding. For mountain biking, there are also wide range cassettes available. Ultra wide 10-52t 12 speed cassettes are available.
When you use a freehub system, you also have better quality and more modern component options to choose from. You can choose from a wide range of modern hubs, cassettes, chains, cranksets, derailleurs, and shifters. These modern components offer smooth and consistent operation. New models are being released every year. There are loads of options to choose from.
With a freewheel, your gearing options are more limited. Most freewheels have 5, 6, or 7 speeds. The gear ranges are usually more narrow. There are fewer gearing options to choose from. Most freewheels are very similar. For example, the most common sizes include 13-28t and 14-34t.
Component options for freewheel systems are also much more limited. Major cycling manufacturers aren’t designing new freewheels, hubs, cranksets, derailleurs, and shifters, for 5, 6, and 7 speed drivetrains. This means you’ll be limited to using parts with older designs. Fewer options are available.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. There are plenty of quality parts available for freewheels. You just won’t get to take advantage of new designs and technologies.
Winner: Freehubs give you more gearing and groupset options than freewheels.
Compatibility
Freewheels offer much better compatibility than freehubs. This is because pretty much all freewheels and freewheel hubs use the same standardized thread size. This allows you to mix and match components from different brands. If you have a 7 speed freewheel, you can replace it with pretty much any other 7 speed freewheel you can find.
This makes it a bit easier to replace your sprockets when they wear out and to change your gearing. You can just buy a different freewheel and swap it out. As long as it has the same number of gears, you don’t really have to worry about compatibility. There is one exception. Some older French hubs used a different thread size.
Freehub systems are somewhat standardized but there is some variation. Shimano’s freehub body is the most common size and design, by far. Many brands make cassettes and hubs that are compatible with Shimano’s freehub bodies. For example, SRAM and SunRace use the same spline pattern and inter-sprocket spacing as Shimano cassettes. They have essentially adopted Shimano’s freehub standard.
It is still important to check for compatibility when buying a cassette from a different brand than your freehub. Some parts are not cross-compatible. For example, Campagnolo cassettes don’t work on Shimano freehubs in most cases because they use a different spline pattern. Some SRAM cassettes don’t fit on some types of Shimano freehub bodies.
Dropout spacing is also an important consideration when choosing between a freehub and freewheel system. Most freewheel hubs are designed to fit frames with 120mm or 126mm dropouts. This spacing is common on older bikes. 120mm dropouts can usually fit a 5 speed and some 6 speed freewheels. 126mm dropouts can fit a 6 or 7 speed freewheel or a freehub with a 7 speed cassette. Modern frames usually come with 130mm or 135mm hub spacing. These are designed to fit a freehub with a 7/8/9/10/11/12 speed cassette.
If your bike has a steel frame, it is possible to bend your dropouts to fit a wider or more narrow hub. This is called ‘cold setting.’ For example, you can widen dropouts from 120mm to 126mm or from 126mm to 130mm pretty easily. This allows you to install a standard-sized freehub into a frame that was originally designed for a freewheel. If your frame is made from carbon fiber or aluminum, you can’t change the dropout spacing.
Winner: Freewheels offer better compatibility than freehubs.
Parts Availability
Both freewheel and freehub parts are widely available. Parts can be easily found at bike shops and online.
Parts availability for freehub systems can be an issue if you ride in a rural area or developing country. Some cassette sizes may not be available. For example, you may have trouble finding a 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette. The reason is that these sizes are newer. They are also expensive. Many basic bike shops in small towns and the developing world don’t stock these parts because locals don’t use them. They ride older bikes or entry-level bikes that use older, less expensive parts. You’ll have to go to a modern high-end bike shop to find the parts that you need.
You probably won’t be able to find a 12 speed cassette in a village in a developing country. You might be able to find a 6 speed freewheel or a 7 or 8 speed cassette. If you only cycle in the developed world, you don’t have to worry about parts availability. You can easily order whatever you need online.
These days, you might have trouble finding a freewheel in a modern bike shop because most bikes use freehubs. I imagine one day freewheels will become uncommon but that probably won’t be for many years.
Winner: Parts availability is good for both freewheel and freehub systems. If you ride in off the beaten path location, you may be better off with a more common sized cassette or freewheel such as a 7 or 8 speed.
Technology
Freehubs are the newer technology. Using the newer hub system allows you to use the latest components. For example, if you want to run a 1x drivetrain with a 11 or 12 speed cassette, you’ll have to use a freehub. If you want to use thru-axles, you’ll need to use a freehub. If you want to use electronic shifting, you’ll need to use a freehub.
These components aren’t compatible with older freewheel systems. Nobody is innovating on that platform anymore. There aren’t any modern or high-end freewheels, cranksets, derailleurs, or shifters, that are designed for 6 speed groupsets.
Winner: Freehubs are a newer technology than freewheels. They are compatible with all of the newest cycling components.
Who Should Use a Freewheel?
If your bike already has a freewheel, it’s best to stick with that system. There really isn’t any reason to upgrade to a freehub system. The expense and effort of switching aren’t worth it. Freewheels offer great performance.
Those who are on a tight budget may also be better off going with a freewheel bike. The bike itself will cost less. Freewheel bikes are also a bit cheaper to maintain. The freewheel and chain cost less to replace when they wear out. You may also save some money if you need to replace the derailleur, shifter, or crankset.
Who Should Use a Freehub?
If you’re buying a new bike, a freehub system is the better choice. It is a more modern system. Freehubs are the current standard. There are really no drawbacks to using a freehub.
Those who cycle competitively are also better off with a freehub system due to the increased performance. With a freehub, you can have more gears and more gearing options. Bikes with more gears have a wider gear range and smaller steps between gears. This allows you to ride faster, more smoothly, and more efficiently.
If you perform all of your own maintenance on your bike, you may also prefer the freehub system. Freehubs make it much easier to remove the rear cogs. This allows for easy maintenance and cleaning.
If you ride in a cycling discipline that is hard on axles, you will also prefer using a freehub system due to the increased axle durability.
Those who prefer to use the most modern and advanced cycling technologies will also prefer using a freehub.
Final Thoughts About Freewheel Vs Freehub Systems
Freehubs are the clear winner. They are better than freewheels in pretty much every way. The most significant advantage of using a freehub system is gearing. Freehubs can give you more gears, more gear range, smaller steps between gears, and more gear options. Another significant advantage of freehubs is maintenance. Freehubs are easier to maintain.
Having said this, freewheel systems do have their advantages. They are cheaper and offer greater compatibility. They also offer excellent performance. Most riders couldn’t tell the difference between a freewheel and freehub by simply riding the bike. Whichever system you choose, I hope this guide has helped you decide.
Does your bike use a freewheel or freehub? Share your experience in the comments below!
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Zachary Friedman is an accomplished travel writer and professional blogger. Since 2011, he has traveled to 66 countries and 6 continents. He founded ‘Where The Road Forks’ in 2017 to provide readers with information and insights based on his travel and outdoor recreation experience and expertise. Zachary is also an avid cyclist and hiker. Living as a digital nomad, Zachary balances his professional life with his passions for hiking, camping, cycling, and worldwide exploration. For a deeper dive into his journey and background, visit the About page. For inquiries and collaborations, please reach out through the Contact page. You can also follow him on Facebook.