You can tour on pretty much any bike. That said, some bikes are better suited for long-distance fully loaded riding than others. This guide explains how to choose a touring bike. In this guide, I’ll outline all of the different features and components to look for. I’ll cover frame design, gearing, wheels, brakes, handlebars, tires, luggage, and more. This guide covers both on-road and off-road touring bikes. Hopefully, this guide helps you pick the right touring bike for your next tour.
For bicycle touring, comfort, stability, and durability are key. Weight and speed aren’t as important. The best touring bike for you depends on where in the world you plan to tour, the distance you plan to tour, the terrain, your budget, your body type, and your personal preference.
There are a number of different types of touring bikes to choose from. A round the world tour requires a different bike than a weekend camping trip. A road tour requires a different bike than an off-road adventure.
Generally, a traditional touring bike will have an overbuilt steel frame with wide tire clearance, 700c wheels with 36 spokes, wide-range gearing, drop bars, and mechanical disc brakes with a comfortable upright riding position and plenty of mounting points for luggage, water bottles, and accessories. These features make the bike ideal for long expeditions.
I started bicycle touring about 10 years ago on an old mountain bike. Since then, I have toured around 10,000 miles through multiple countries on a range of different bikes. I have experimented with dozens of different configurations from internal gear hubs to hydraulic disc brakes. In this guide, I’ll share my experience.
What Type of Bike Tour are you Planning? Considerations When Choosing a Bike
Before making any decisions, you want to consider how you’ll be using the bike. These choices will help you determine the features and types of components to look for when choosing a touring bike.
- The type of terrain you plan to tour on- Do you plan to tour on-road or off-road? If you plan to stay on the pavement, a more road-oriented bike with skinny tires and drop bars may be a better choice. If you plan to spend your time riding trails and dirt roads, you may be better off with a more off-road oriented bike with wide tires and wide handlebars. Mountain bikes can make good touring bikes.
- Your touring destination- If you’re touring in developed countries like the US, Western Europe, Canada, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, or South Korea, you can use any components you wish because replacement parts are readily available. This means you can use modern, high-end gear like hydraulic disc brakes, 700c wheels, and a carbon frame. If you’re touring in the developing world, spare parts can be hard to come by. You’ll want to choose a bike that uses standard-sized, low-tech parts that are durable, easy to find, and easy to repair and maintain. Examples include 26 inch wheels, rim brakes, and a steel frame.
- Your budget– Most of us are limited by a budget. Used touring bikes that are in decent condition run around $500-$1000. Entry-level touring bikes run around $800-$1200. Mid-range options run $1400-$2000. The best touring bikes start at around $4000 and the sky is the limit from there.
- How long you plan to tour- If you’re going on a 5 year round-the-world expedition, you’ll want the most durable and reliable touring bike that you can get. If you’re just riding a couple of hundred miles, you may wish to optimize your bike for weight and speed. You could also get away with a used or low-end bike.
- How much gear you need to carry- Are you an ultralight tourist or do you prefer to tour fully loaded? If you eat in restaurants and stay in hotels every night and don’t need camping gear, you can get away with a lightweight frame and small panniers. If you tour fully loaded with camping gear and 10 days worth of food, you’ll need a heavy-duty frame, front and rear racks, and wheels that can handle the weight.
Types of Touring Bikes
Touring bikes come in a wide range of designs. They all include strong frames and wheels that are designed for carrying a load. Frames offer plenty of mounting points for racks, water bottle cages, and accessories. Touring bikes can be separated into three categories depending on the type of terrain they are designed for.
Road Touring Bikes
At first glance, these look just like standard road bikes. They have the same general frame shape and typically use drop bars. There are a few key differences. The frame usually has a geometry that allows for a more relaxed upright riding position and increased stability. There are braze-ons for attaching front and rear racks and panniers. Most road touring bikes include strong 700c 36 spoke wheels with tires that are slightly wider than traditional road tires. These allow you to handle the occasional dirt road when necessary. Road touring bikes are an excellent choice if you plan to mostly stick to the pavement.
Off-Road Touring Bikes (Bikepacking or Adventure Bikes)
These bikes are designed for touring on rough terrain and off-road. They closely resemble mountain bikes with a few differences. Off-road touring bikes usually do not have suspension. The frame and fork are rigid. They include wide or knobby tires that allow you to ride dirt and gravel roads and trails. The wheels are usually 650b or 29er. Off-road touring bikes are an excellent choice if you plan to spend most of your bike tour off the pavement.
Expedition Touring Bikes
These bikes are designed for hardcore, extremely long-distance rides through remote regions. This is the type of bike you would ride from Cairo to Cape Town or from Alaska to Argentina. Expedition touring bikes use durable, long-lasting.
They also come with standard sized components such as steel frames, 26 inch wheels, and rim brakes. These parts may be considered outdated but they are common and relatively easy to find all over the world. Expedition touring bikes can be built for predominantly on-road use, off-road use, or somewhere in between.
Some cyclists are choosing fat bikes for particularly remote expeditions like riding across desert or snowy environments.
Touring Bike Frames
Touring bike frames need to be comfortable and made from durable materials that can handle high mileage and heavy loads. They also need to fit the components that you plan to use. This section outlines touring bike frame geometry and materials as well as component and accessory compatibility.
Frame Geometry for Touring Bikes
Most touring frames have a geometry that puts the rider in a more upright riding position than standard road bikes. This is achieved by placing the handlebars higher in relation to the seat. Sitting upright puts less stress on your back and wrists. It also allows for more efficient diaphragm breathing. Your neck also sits in a more neutral position.
Having a long wheelbase is also preferable for touring because it improves the bike’s stability. The wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear hubs. Having a long wheelbase makes the steering a bit less sensitive. This allows you to sit back, pedal, and enjoy the view without having to constantly correct your steering.
Many touring bikes also have long chainstays. The chainstays are the bars that run from the bottom bracket to the rear dropout. Long chainstays allow you to use large rear panniers without having to worry about your heels hitting them while you pedal. This feature is particularly important for taller riders.
Frame Material for Touring Bikes: Steel Vs Aluminum
Steel is the most common frame material for a number of reasons. First, steel offers excellent ride quality because it isn’t completely rigid. The material flexes a bit which allows it to dampen vibrations and shocks. This makes for a smoother ride. Steel also incredibly strong and durable. A steel frame can handle tens of thousands of miles without fatiguing and cracking. If the frame does break, it’s easy to find a steel welder to repair it pretty much anywhere on earth.
The main drawback to steel is that it is inefficient. Steel is heavy. Heavy steel frames take more energy to accelerate and maintain speed. Steel also flexes. When the frame flexes you waste energy that could be used to drive you forward. The reduced efficiency causes you to ride at a slower average speed. Steel can also rust which can ruin the frame if left untreated.
Aluminum framed touring bikes are also popular these days. The main advantage aluminum has over steel is the weight. Aluminum is lighter because it has a lower density. A lighter bike is more efficient and faster. Aluminum is also more rigid than steel. This also helps to increase efficiency. Steel is the cheapest frame material.
The main drawback to aluminum is that it tends to fatigue more quickly than steel because the material is harder and more rigid. The frame probably won’t last quite as long. The rigid material is also less comfortable because it doesn’t absorb vibrations as well as steel. Another drawback is repairability. Aluminum isn’t easy to weld so you may have trouble finding someone who can repair it if your frame cracks.
Higher-end frame materials include titanium and carbon fiber. Titanium frames are expensive but incredibly strong and durable. Carbon fiber frames are not recommended for bicycle touring because most cannot accept racks for mounting panniers. They are also less durable than metal frames.
For more info, check out my guide: Steel Vs Aluminum Bike Frames.
One other less common material to consider is bamboo.
Bike Frames and Component Compatibility
Regardless of your frame material and geometry, you need to consider which components you plan to use before committing to a frame. Not all components are compatible. You must decide on:
- Disc or rim brakes- The frame needs the proper mounting points for the brakes that you prefer. I’ll talk more about brake options later on.
- Internal gear hub or derailleur- Pretty much all frames are compatible with derailleurs. If you plan to run an internal gear hub, make sure the frame has the proper mounting points for the chain tensioner.
- Wheel size- Frames are designed to work with one specific wheel size. If you fit a different wheel size, your bottom bracket could be too low or too high. There are exceptions to this. Some frames can work with multiple wheel sizes.
- Tire width- Your frame determines the maximum tire width that you can install. If you plan to do a significant amount of off-road riding, make sure your frame can at least accommodate a tire that is 2.5 inches wide.
- Thru-axles or quick release- Thru-axle frames use different dropouts than quick release. For more info, check out my thru axle vs quick release pros and cons list.
Braze-Ons (Bosses or Rack Mounts)
Braze-ons are threaded fittings that are welded onto the frame. They allow you to mount racks, water bottle cages, fenders, and other accessories. At a minimum, you’ll want braze-ons on the sides of the fork and seat stays. These allow you to mount racks and panniers. You’ll also want braze-ons inside of the triangle for mounting water bottle cages.
Some touring bikes include a multitude of braze-ons all over the frame and fork for mounting additional water bottle cages, pumps, fork cages, and more. For touring, the more braze-ons the better. They just give you more options in terms of the types of luggage and accessories you can mount.
Wheel Size for Touring Bicycles
When it comes to wheel size, you have three main choices for touring. Listed in order of smallest to largest, they include:
- 26 inch (ISO: 559mm)- This is the classic mountain bike wheel size. 26 inch is the most common bicycle wheel size found around the world. These are common on expedition touring bikes because spare tires, tubes, and rims are easier to find in remote regions.
- 27.5 or 650b (ISO: 584mm)- Both of these have the same diameter. The name depends on your region. This size is increasing in popularity among bicycle tourists and bikpackers. It’s a nice mid-size between 26 inch and 29er wheels.
- 700c and 29er (ISO: 622mm)- These both have the same rim diameter. The difference is that 700c refers to road bike wheels while 29er usually refers to mountain bike wheels. 700c rims are more narrow. 29er rims are wider so they can accommodate wider off-road tires. 700c is the classic touring bike wheel size.
The best wheel size comes down to whether you’re touring off-road or on-road and where in the world you plan to tour. Generally, if you’re touring in the developed world on road, 700c is the best choice. If you’re touring through remote regions or the developing world, 26 inch is the better choice.
In the following section, I’ll outline 700c, 26 inch, and 650b wheels. I also made this video which contains much of the same info.
700c (and 29er) Wheels
700c is the best and most common wheel size for road touring. 700c wheels offer a comfortable ride. They easily roll over obstacles like potholes and stones due to the large diameter. They are also more efficient because larger wheels have less rolling resistance. 700c wheels also offer the most options in terms of tires, rims, and frames because it is the most popular size tese days. In the developed world, parts availability is excellent.
One drawback to 700c wheels is that they are structurally weaker than smaller 26 inch wheels. The spokes are longer due to the larger diameter. This means you’re more likely to suffer broken spokes. The wheels can’t handle quite as heavy of loads either. Parts availability is not as good in the developing world. You may have trouble getting a new tire or rim in remote regions.
29er wheels have the same benefits and drawbacks as 700c. The difference is that they are designed to fit wider tires for off-road use. These wheels are great for riding on rough terrain because they easily roll over rocks, branches, and other obstacles due to the large diameter.
26 Inch Wheels
26 inch wheels are preferable while touring through remote regions because parts are much more widely available. If you destroy a wheel, you’ll probably be able to find a new rim or spokes. Even in undeveloped areas. Tires and tubes are easier to come by as well. 26 inch wheels are also structurally stronger than 700c wheels because the spokes are shorter. This means they can handle more weight and take a bigger beating without breaking.
The main drawback to 26 inch wheels is that they ride a bit rougher due to the smaller diameter. They don’t glide over obstacles. You’ll also have fewer options in terms of tires and frames because this size has fallen out of favor in the developed world. Manufacturers are mostly focusing on larger wheel sizes these days.
650b (27.5 Inch) Wheels
650b wheels fall somewhere in between 26” and 700c in terms of strength and performance. For some riders, 700c is too large but they still want the benefits of a larger wheel. In this case, 650b is an excellent compromise. Some riders find that 650b wheels perform better off-road than the other sizes.
The biggest problem with 650b wheels is parts availability. This is probably the least common wheel size around the world. If you’re traveling through Central Asia and you crack a rim, you may have to have a new one shipped in or fly home to buy a replacement.
Wheel Strength and Number of Spokes
With all of the extra weight you carry while touring, wheel strength is almost as important as wheel size. Your wheel strength is determined by the number of spokes, the spoke pattern, the quality of the wheel components, and the build quality.
For touring, 36 spoke wheels are ideal. The extra spokes give your wheels the strength to carry the extra weight of all of your gear. They also allow you to handle rougher terrain. You’ll suffer fewer broken spokes or cracked rims with 36 spoke wheels. At a minimum, your touring bike wheels should have 32 spokes. For more info, check out my guide to 32 Vs 36 spoke wheels.
The spoke pattern is also important. Wheels with spokes that cross are stronger. If the spokes cross multiple times, they’re stronger yet.
The quality of your hubs, rims, and spokes also play a major role in the strength of your wheels. The wheels are one part of your bike that you don’t want to cheap out on. Look for double-wall rims, steel spokes, quality hubs made by major manufacturers. A quality set of wheels can last over 20,000 miles.
You also want to make sure that your wheels are properly built. If the spokes aren’t tensioned properly or if the lace pattern is wrong, you’ll suffer broken spokes. Before setting off on a tour, consider getting your spokes tensioned or check the tension yourself. If you’re buying new wheels, make sure that they were built by a quality wheel builder.
The wheel material is also worth considering. For touring bikes, aluminum wheels are generally preferable to carbon fiber.
To read my complete analysis on touring bike wheel sizes, check out my guide: 26 inch vs 700c Bicycle Wheels.
For touring, you may also want to consider installing a dynamo hub. These generate electricity as you ride. You can use this electricity to charge small electronic devices such as your phone, GPS, camera, etc. You can also power a headlight. For more info, check out my guide: Are Dynamo Hubs Worth it?
Touring Bike Drivetrain: Derailleurs and Internal Gear Hubs
This is the most mechanically complex part of a touring bike. The drivetrain transmits power from the pedals to the rear wheel. It also shifts the gears. A bicycle drivetrain consists of cranks, chainring(s), rear cog(s), a chain or belt, and derailleurs or an internal gear hub.
With all of the hundreds or thousands of miles you’ll be pedaling, the drive components need to be reliable and durable. Touring takes its toll on components. You want to choose parts that can stand up to heavy use so you don’t have to spend your time making adjustments and replacing worn-out parts. This means avoiding lightweight and high-tech components that are designed for racing. You want to choose heavy-duty parts that are tried and true
For touring, you’ll also want a wide gear range with at least one very low gear. The gear range is the difference between the lowest and highest gear. A wide gear range allows you to handle the varied terrain that you encounter while touring.
Low gears, which make pedaling easy, are particularly important for touring. As you can imagine, they come in handy while pedaling your heavy, fully loaded bike up a steep mountain pass. For fully loaded touring, 20-100 gear inches is a good range.
When it comes to touring bike drivetrains, you have two options for your gearing: derailleurs or internal gear hubs. Below, I’ll outline both and explain a few of the main benefits and drawbacks.
Derailleur Drivetrains
Derailleurs are the most common gear shift system for touring. Most touring derailleur drivetrains have a triple crankset and 8-10 speed cassette for a total of 24-30 gears.
These days, some bicycle tourists are moving toward a single chainring and 11-12 speed cassette because no front derailleur is required. This further simplifies the system.
The main benefit of using derailleurs is simplicity. Derailleur drivetrains are easy to repair and adjust with simple tools that you can carry in your tool kit and some basic bicycle knowledge. Replacement parts are also much easier to find. Even local bike shops in remote locations carry derailleurs, cassettes, shifters, and cables. If something wears out or breaks, you can usually find replacements and get back on the road. This brings peace of mind. Derailleur drivetrains are also inexpensive, lightweight, and efficient.
There are some drawbacks. Derailleurs require quite a bit of maintenance. In order to keep everything running smoothly, you need to regularly clean and lube the chain, adjust the derailleurs, and replace the cassette and chain when they wear out (usually every 5,000-10,000 miles). Derailleurs can be a bit temperamental. Because the system is open, they can easily get contaminated with sand, dirt, and other debris. In poor weather and dirty conditions, they need frequent cleaning.
Internal Gear Hubs
Most modern touring bikes use an internal gear hub. Internal gear hubs house the gears and gear change mechanism inside of the rear hub. They change the gear ratio with planetary gears. The best internal gear hubs for touring is the 14 speed Rohloff Speedhub. These are popular for their incredible reliability, longevity, and smooth performance.
The main benefit internal gear hubs offer over derailleurs is that they are very low maintenance. To keep them running, you just have to change the oil every 5000 km and keep the chain clean and lubed. Because all of the moving parts are sealed away in the hub, they are also durable and long-lasting. Some riders have gotten over 100,000 km out of their hub. Other advantages internal gear hubs offer over derailleurs include the ability to shift while stopped and shift multiple gears at once. You can also use a belt drive which makes the drivetrain virtually maintenance-free.
Of course, there are several drawbacks. The biggest being the cost. An internal gear hub that is suitable for long-distance touring costs as much as a complete touring bike with derailleurs (around $1600). Another issue with internal gear hubs is the fact that they are not easily repairable. In fact, most bike shops won’t touch them outside of doing routine maintenance. If your hub fails, you usually have to ship it to the manufacturer to have it repaired or replaced. Finding replacement parts can prove problematic as well. You need the proper oil and sprockets when the time comes to do maintenance. These aren’t available everywhere. You may need to carry them with you through certain sections of your tour. Internal gear hubs also offer fewer gears and a smaller gear range than most derailleur drivetrains.
To read my complete analysis, check out my guide: Derailleur Vs. Internal Gear Hub.
Brakes for Bicycle Touring
As you can imagine, it takes an enormous amount of braking force to stop 300 pounds worth of touring bike, gear, and rider while speeding down a steep mountain pass at 30 miles per hour. Needless to say, you need reliable and powerful brakes for touring.
When it comes to bike brakes, have two choices: rim brakes and disc brakes. Most touring bikes these days come equipped with mechanical disc brakes. These are a great choice for off-road touring, riding in mountainous regions, and riding in poor weather. Rim brakes are ideal for expedition touring through the developing world. Below, I’ll outline the benefits and drawbacks of each touring brake type.
Rim Brakes for Touring
These are classic bike brakes. Rim brakes apply braking force directly to the flat sides of the rims with calipers that mount to the frame and fork. Rim brakes are actuated with steel cables that run from the brake lever to the calipers.
The advantages of rim brakes are that they are cheap and simple to maintain and repair. If something goes wrong, you can tear the whole caliper apart on the side of the road with a few simple tools. You can easily see the pads to observe wear. If you need a new caliper or pads, you can easily buy them anywhere in the world. Rim brake parts are incredibly common. Additionally, rim brakes are easy on forks and wheels because the braking force is transmitted through the rim. They are also lighter than disc brakes.
The main disadvantage of rim brakes is that they offer less stopping power than disc brakes because they provide less mechanical advantage. Rim brakes also don’t work as well in wet or muddy conditions. When the pads and rims get wet, friction is reduced. This increases your stopping distance which can be dangerous. Rim brakes also produce heat in the rim that